Climbing Update
Registered climbers - 922
Climbers on the mountain - 430
Climbers done and off the mountain - 161
Conditions Report
Recent travel conditions and cold temperatures are being reported from the mountain. Ranger McBrayer reported that temperatures at 14,000 feet and above have remained incredibly cold. A guide checking into the station reported knee-deep snow on Squirrel Hill on their recent descent. On 5/30, no teams were at High Camp, with the weather window opening on 5/31, it is estimated that 100 climbers moved to High Camp. Both the up and down lines on the Headwall are travelable. With teams now at High Camp, we expect to receive more specifics on the 16K Ridge and Denali Pass Headwall. The reports indicate that pickets are present, but they are somewhat thin to date.
Squirrel Hill Conditions last week on 5/21. Patrol 1 Team: Tupy, Dramis, Tanner B., Guetschow. Photo/Herstand.
Windy Corner Conditions last week on 5/21. Patrol 1 Team. Photo/Guetschow.
Cold Injuries
This season, the Rangers at 14K Camp have assessed and treated numerous cold injuries, all of which could have been prevented. Frostbite can be a life-altering injury that is 100% preventable with self-care and the mental acuity to recognize both when something is trending negatively and to what degree.
Sometimes, you may need to make a change, such as adjusting the rate of travel, changing gloves, or putting on overboots. At other times, you may need to have the mental tenacity to communicate to your team members that descent is the only way forward. A recent patient from this season has agreed to share the photos of their cold injuries sustained for educational purposes.
Frostbite sustained this May, shared for educational purposes.
The NPS team wants to emphasize that cold injuries and frostbite are preventable. Staying hydrated is one of the best ways to prevent frostbite. We have received multiple reports this year of individuals handing stoves and carabiners without gloves, which has led to trip-ending frostbite. This is preventable by breaking in your gloves before your trip, and by practicing all your camp chores and rope skills with the gloves you plan to use for these tasks. Across the board, it is critical to train with the gear you will be using. You should plan and prepare never to touch metal with your bare hands while on the glacier. Once you are moving, it is crucial to success to be honest with yourself and your team when changes need to be made to keep limbs warm. Be that if a glove needs to be changed, travel speed increased or decreased, or the hardest decision, which should be easy, when to turn around. There is no single day of travel on the mountain that is more important than a finger, toe, or nose.
A team coming off the mountain this week, being interviewed by a Ranger, had an exceptional answer to the question of, “What was a highlight of your trip?”. The team answered without hesitation, saying, “My teammate understood and agreed with me when I realized we should turn around”. It was an excellent example of traveling through the Alaska Range for the journey, camaraderie, challenge, and wilderness, rather than prioritizing a summit and putting a team member's health or limbs at risk.
Former Ranger Roger Robinson wisely advised not to lick any flag poles!
You may be lucky enough to get a briefing with Roger, who will be with us at the station for a few days this summer.
On June 7 at 7:00 pm, Roger will give a presentation at the Sheldon Community Arts Hangar in Talkeetna! Event details and tickets about the event can be found at Denali South Buttress Climbs Presentation - and DRV Fundraiser - Denali Arts Council. Tickets are free, with a suggested $10 donation to the Denali Rescue Volunteers (DRV).
If you are unable to attend next Saturday but wish to explore more details about DVR, please visit www.denalirescue.org. Denali rescue volunteers have been assisting the park and climbing rangers for nearly 50 years. These volunteers donate their time, skills, and expertise to protect Denali’s mountaineering visitors and preserve its glaciated wilderness. Climbers and Denali National Park are indebted to them for their service.
Roger Robinson on the 1975 Climb, age 21.
South Buttress 1975, photo from Roger Robinson
